Tuesday 31 July 2012

Up to 50 Tips for Small Gardens 
(if I can find the other half of these articles which appeared in the Sunday Style magazine several years ago)


From furniture, lighting and feng sui to plants that delight the senses, here are two finishing touches that will give your garden the edge.  Plus: the best ways to wage war of the gardener's worst enemies, and books that are bursting with bright ideas.


Privacy
  • Screen the edge of the garden (or part of the garden) with panels of reed, bamboo or even polycarbonate.   4' is plenty high enough. Or construct a pergola.
  • Erect a canvas canopy - such as sail type, complete with block and tackle for raising and lowering.
  • A green wall of plants in large containers looks wonderful.  Choose sturdy plants or even small fruit trees.
  • Trellis panels, slats of wood, mesh or even railings are the perfect support for climbing plants that will grow to create a secluded oasis.
Security 
  • Put gravel on paths, also sprinkle a thick layer below windows, near doorways and along dark pathways.
  • Thorny shrubs also are a good ground floor windows deterrent to a burglar.  Attach trelising to fences for extra height (and a treacherous foothold) and grow rambling or climbing roses over them.
  • Some gardens have a hard to protect area of unused land where they meet neighbouring gardens.  To prevent would-be intruders using this as a short cut to your back door, grow scrambling plants, such as raspberries and blackberries, along the ground at the back of your plot.  Their arching stems will root along their length to form an impenetrable barrier.
  • Install infrared security lighting at the front and back of buildings.
Garden Furniture
Look for a blend of resilience and good looks.  Wood fulfils both criteria and ages gracefully, metal is hard-wearing and versatile, while modern materials make it easy to introduce colour.  Good design doesn't have to be expensive.  

Lighting
Light will give your garden an extra dimension.  It can prolong al fresco dinners on warm summer evenings and create a wonderful view through frosty winter windows.  The best products are low-voltage, which are safe for outdoor use.  The wires can be routed along boundaries and are generally thin enough to be threaded through window frames and connected to an indoor transformer (if in doubt, consult an electrician). 
  • Trees and statuary can be picked out by spotlights, and pools of light can be created by down lighters mounted on pergolas or trellises.  Try different angles and bulb strengths.
  • Burglars will be put off even by subtle lighting, so avoid floodlights that just emphasise unlit areas.
  • For something more romantic, use flares, garden candles, or even a string of white fairy lights laced through the branches of a tree.
  • For safety, use low-level washes of light to illuminate flights of steps and paths leading to front doors.

Feng Shui
The craze for feng shui is even spreading to gardens.  If you don't believe it can help spiritually, at the very least it makes good design sense.  Here are some ideas:
  • Balance the yin and yang (negative and positive) by mixing broad-leafed plants with lacy foliage such as ferns.  Red and yellow flowers are yang, while blues and violets are yin.  Evergreen hedges are the best as they produce leaves - and energy - all year round.
  • Use water features in the garden.  An open ceramic vessel collects bad chi, or energy, but when filled with water represents good chi.  A bird bath will attract birds into the garden, replenishing its energy.  A small waterfall, which flows over rocks, will do the same.
  • Paths should be curved to follow natural movements; similarly, gardens with gentle undulations are best for promoting good energy.
Turning Japanese
The minimalist approach takes its inspiration from the Zen temple gardens of Japan and, at its simplest, is the ultimate in low-maintenance gardening.  
  • Replace your lawn with an expanse of stone chippings, then add sea-washed pebbles and randomly placed boulders as organise sculpture.  These should rise like islands from the gravel, which can be raked into perfect patterns, although you should probably only contemplate this is you have infinite patience and no animals or children.
  • If you have room for trees at the edge of the garden, use slender varieties, such as acers, which produce colourful foliage in autumn. 
  • Encourage a carpet of moss to grow around the foots by painting them with live yoghurt or liquid manure. Moss will flourish only in shady, damp conditions and although, in small areas, it can be used as a lawn substitute, it's generally too wet underfoot to be practical, and to prone to drying out in summer.
Healthy Plants
Cancel the gym subscriptions, bin the first-aid box and dose yourself up with health-promoting plants.
  • Certain plants have been proven to be more effective than others at improving air quality, counteracting the negative effects of air conditioning and reducing airbourne pollutants. Try foliage plants such as spider plants, parlour palm and Boston ferns.
  • Grow your own herbal remedies: garlic thins the blood and helps ward off colds.  
  • If you have overindulged a sprig of parsley is nature's answer to breath-freshener. 
  • A few leaves of lemon verbena steeped in hot water help  to soothe indigestion, ensuring a good night's sleep.
  • The leaves of peppermint and spearmint added to the bath can ease away stress.
  • Lavender can be used in potpourri for its soothing fragrance.
  • Don't ignore rosehips, which are packed with Vitamin C, or seed sprouts, which are one of the richest sources of vitamins and minerals. You don't even need a garden to grow your own: adzuki beans, fenugreek, alfalfa, mustard and cress will all thrive on a window sill.
Sensual gardening
A garden should engage and stimulate all the senses.  Sound and touch may seem less important than visual interest, but they can both contribute greatly to your enjoyment of your outdoor room.  The gentle splash of water, for instance, is hypnotically calming, while the tactile texture of ornamental bark, the crunch of gravel or the rustle of autumn leaves underfoot can all be hugely satisfying.
  • Choose plants that appeal to more than one of the senses.  Grasses are always a good choice, as their shifting foliage whispers and murmurs in the slightest breeze and you will find it difficult not to run your hands through it.  The bladder seeds pods of Colutea x media rattle in the wind and the large leaves of hostas patter like drums in the rain.  Prunus serrula is irresistible to the touch with its smooth-as-satin bark, while woolly thyme (thymus pseudolanuginosus) is like running your fingers over fleece.
  • And don't ignore scent.  Remember that fragrance in the garden isn't just about flowers: other less obvious plants can be just as captivating.  Plant thyme in paving cracks and edge paths with lavender, so that their delicious perfumes are released as you brush past.
Fountains
Enjoy the sound of water with a bubble fountain or a waterfall.  Ready-made kits can be bought containing everything needed.  They can be run off mains electricity, or more easily, off solar power.

Barbecue
If you plan to cook in your garden regularly, it makes sense to build a permanent brick barbecue.  You can build one from a kit or design one yourself. Start with a level surface, such as a patio, and site the barbecue close enough to the house for easy access, but far enough away to avoid cooking smells wafting inside.  Otherwise, buy a barbecue on wheels so it can be sited where you like, and put away during inclement weather.

Ornaments
Go one up on gnomes.  A good piece of statuary gives your garden a focal point - especially important in winter when there is little else to look at.  If your garden has a modern feel, opt for abstract pieces.
The large garden shows are a good place to pick up unusual work.
Go for small sculptural works, or commission (or make!) something yourself.

Natural pest control
There is a huge variety of heavy-duty products on the market that zap the pests that destroy the results of your hard labour.  If you decide to eschew the chemicals on the garden-centre shelves, however, there are several more environmentally friendly methods with which to wage war against the creatures that have designs on your garden.
  • The worst culprits are slugs and snails, which not only munch their way through your hostas at an alarming rate, but leave slimy paths in their wake (and a slug caught underfoot at night is an unpleasant experience).  Try gravel mulch or crushed eggshells around susceptible plants, or bury a cup of beer nearby so that the pests slip into it and drown (don't forget to empty it regularly!).
  • Liquid soap, widely available from garden centres or similar, will give aphids a run for their money, while earwigs and other creepy-crawlies can be lured into the false security of an upturned straw-filled plant pot on the end of a cane.  Removing the pot from time to time and setting light to the straw should deal with the wee beasties!
  • More about this subject in other articles.
Lawn mowers
Lawns can be more trouble than they're worth in a small garden. But if you do want a lawn, mowing doesn't have to be a chore.  With the right machine, you might even enjoy it.
  • For lawns under 50 sq metres, an electric mower with a 30cm cutting edge is fine.  If you want a striped effect, cylinder models are better than rotary versions, but they don't cope well with uneven ground.  Hovers are easiest to manoeuvre.
  • Consider getting a hand-driven mower.  Their relatively compact size and low cost make them a good choice for a small garden, and will make you popular with the neighbours.
  • If that seems too much like hard work, get your hands on the self-propelled solar mower, which cuts the lawn unassisted as you lounge in the sun with a gin and tonic.  And electrical circuit embedded in the edge of the lawn or hidden in shrubs prevents the machine from running amok and cutting off either your toes or your tulips - and it will even work on cloudy days.
Flower Power
If it offends your principles to harm living creatures, familiarise yourself with companion planting.  Team up plants with their natural partners and they will do your dirty work for you.
  • French marigolds may be a bit gaudy, but they have their uses: plant them alongside potatoes and they'll kill off eelworms; put them with other crops and they'll attract aphid-eating hover flies.
  • Larger plantings of marigolds and lupins will wipe out couch grass and ground elder.
  • Plant carrots and onions together.  Their smells mask each other so that carrot and onion flies get confused and hopefully dine elsewhere.
  • Chives, parsley, catmint and thyme will make a scented carpet of flowers and foliage beneath roses and ward off aphids into the bargain.
  • Basil keeps whitefly from infesting tomatoes and sweet peppers, as well as making them taste better.
  • Growing a large patch of flowers or vegetables is like putting out a 'welcome' sign for insects.  Plants them among your ornamentals and let predators from neighbouring bushes feast on the harmful pests.
Plants in trees
When their branches are bare, many trees just don't seem interesting enough to justify the amount of space they take up.  But you can make the most of them throughout the year by using them as supports for other plants, whether ramblers such as roses, or attractive parasites such as mistletoe.  They also come into their own as a home for wild life.
  • Introduce clumps of mistletoe to bare apple trees in winter by cutting a notch in a young branch and bursting a mistletoe berry into the hole.  The seed will stick, thanks to a glue like substance in the berry, and with luck will produce a plant roughly two years later - contrary to popular belief, the chances of the seed taking are roughly 50/50.
  • Willow, poplar and alder roots make the perfect place to grow the unusual parasite purple toothwort.  Expose the top of a shallow root with a trowel and scatter the seed on top.  The toothwort will germinate and feed on the root (without harming the tree) and send up lots of ground-hugging, white-to-mauve flowers each spring.
  • Position nesting boxes in trees for birds.  They should be placed in a shady spot between 7ft and 10ft high, facing any direction from north to south east to avoid the scorching sun and wetter winds.
Plants to avoid
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but there are limits.  Steer clear of the following at all costs:
  • The rainbow spikes of Phormium 'Dazzler' and other variegated varieties that make the garden look like a pick-and-mix counter.
  • Elaeagnus pungens 'Maculata'. Bright plants can be cheery in winter, but this is too much like scrambled eggs to live with.
  • Very double roses, that can't hold up their heads and turn to mush in the rain.
  • So-called red delphiniums, that are actually a washy pink.  Delphiniums are always better blue.
  • Aegopodium podagraria (Variegatum': the evil ground elder in disguise.  If it reverts to type, you will regret ever having invited it into your garden.
  • Standard Salix caprea 'Kilmarnock': a weeping pussy willow on a stick.  Leave well along.
  • Polygonum baldschuanicum, because is it quite simply a brute that will take over everything it can.
  • Sickly plants: anything that needs constant spraying just isn't worth the effort.
  • Any plants taken from the wild.  Given modern propagation techniques, there's no need to ravage nature to stock your garden, so always check the origins of species plants before buying.

Grass roots

  • grasses are an essential part of the modern garden, offering grace, stature, movement and a huge variety of form, leaf shape and flower type - and most are easy to grow.

Trendy pots: 

  • Teracotta (matt finishes and muted colours)
  • metallic or galvanised; 
  • think modern, perhaps translucent

If you don't have a garden ... 
  • .... or fancy a window box - how about sticking transparent plastic vase on your front window and fill with flowers?  Or turn your walls into a virtual garden with giant flower pictures.
Helpful books

Flower Shows
  • Chelsea
  • Malvern Spring Garden Show
  • Tatton Park
  • BBC Gardeners' World Live
  • Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
  • Scotland's National Gardening Show





Thursday 26 July 2012

PEANUT BUTTER
Ten ideas

  1. Enrich smooth pumpkin soup with a spoonful of crunchy peanut butter.
  2. To make a nutty spread for children's sandwiches, melt some good plant chocolate, combine with crunchy peanut butter, then cool until thickened.
  3. Toasted bread, spread with peanut butter and topped with crispy bacon and rocket leaves makes a terrific brunch-time snack.
  4. Swirl softened peanut butter into a tub of vanilla ice-cream and serve with hot chocolate sauce.
  5. Crunch peanut butter mixed with chopped coriander, hot chilli sauce, crushed garlic and grated ginger makes an interesting Asian dip.
  6. For a quick Thai vegetable curry, dilute the above dip with coconut milk, heat, then add chunks of sweet potato, sliced spring onions and courgettes, and gently stew.  Scatter with bean sprouts and coriander leaves before serving.
  7. Plain chocolate, melted and mixed with peanut butter and a slug of branch makes a fudge-like icing for a chocolate cake.
  8. Stir rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, some chopped garlic and chilli, along with some hot water, if necessary, into peanut butter, heat and drizzle over hot noodles.  Garnish with toasted sesame seeds.
  9. Fry chopped onion, garlic, cumin and mustard seeds and mix into mashed potato with some crunchy peanut butter.  Shape into patties, fry until golden, and serve with yoghurt mixed with garam masala.
  10. Combine softened cream cheese and peanut butter to make  rich filling for shortbread biscuits.
African Chicken, see link
And ... Peanut butter goes with:
  • crispy bacon
  • chocolate
  • hot toast
  • cucumber
  • pork
  • chicken
  • coconut milk
  • beef
  • scallops
  • Asian greens
  • prawns
Also see ...
Peanut Butter Buttons, see link
















Peanut Butter Tart, see link




How are hunger and appetite different?

Hunger is a basic, stomach-rumbling need for food that we notice about four hours after our last meal.  It occurs when our stomachs are empty and levels of sugar in our blood begin to dip, and is the main signal that we should listen to when it comes to deciding when to eat our next meal.


Appetite, on the other hand, is the desire to eat, which is driven more by the look, smell, and taste of foods than by physical hunger.  For instance, the smell of coffee and freshly baked bread can trigger appetite, or a photograph of a lip-smackingly delicious cream cake can make us suddenly desire a slice, even if we're not hungry. Equally, our mood can affect appetite, too, with many of us turning to the food we associate with being comforting when feeling blue, stressed, cold or even bored.


Understanding the difference between hunger and appetite is vital if we are to help ourselves to control what, when and the amount we eat.  If we can eat in a way that delays the time that true hunger kicks in, it's easier to control our appetite and therefore to eat less.
It seems that understanding hunger and appetite can also cut our risk of heart disease.  According to researchers at a university in the US, it's not just what you eat, but how to eat and your attitude towards food and meal times that affect your risk of heart disease.  They discovered that those people who were not in tune with having a real sense of hunger did not understand the difference between hunger and appetite.  They often did not really enjoy their meals, were least able to maintain their weight and had five times higher levels of 'bad' cholesterol than those who enjoyed their meals and ate when hungry.  Another good reason to get to grips with eating habits.


Food to fill up on

How we eat and the foods we choose can both help to control hunger levels and so stop us grabbing high-calorie snacks.


Foods that help you to eat less at meal times:
Simply eating a bowl of soup or a small salad before tucking into the main course can help to take the edge of hunger and in turn help to control your appetite while eating so that you end up eating fewer calories in your overall meal.
It's also been shown that foods with air in them help us to feel fuller.  For example if you make a home-made smoothie, whisking it for longer in the blender will introduce air and incrase its volume, which will keep hunger at bay for longer.


Protein rich foods:
Foods rich in protein, such as lean red meat, chicken, eggs and fish, help to switch off hunger signals in our brains quickly so that we soon feel full after starting to eat them.
Scientists are not 100% sure why protein is so satiating, but it could be an evolutionary buffer to help stop us over-eating these foods, which in very large quantities may put a strain on our kidneys.
It's probably also down to the fact that protein physically takes a long time to digest, which helps to keep you feeling full for longer after eating than foods rich in carbohydrates.


Low GI carbohydrates:
That said, some carbohydrates do more to reduce hunger and keep tabs on appetite than others. Slowly digested ones such as porridge, sugar-free muesli, rye, granary and pitta bread, tortilla wraps, sweet potatoes, pasta  and most vegetables and fruits release sugar into our blood slowly and steadily for several hours after eating.
Known as low glycaemic index of low GI carbohydrates, the steady supply of blood sugar they provide helps to delay the speed at which hunger pangs strike again. And because they help to avoid blood sugar dipping below normal levels, they also tend to reduce theurge to grab sugar-rich and, of course, high-calorie foods, such as biscuits, cakes and chocolate, between meals.


For ideas, see: http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/http://uktv.co.uk/food/homepage/sid/423/ and http://allrecipes.com/recipes/healthy-recipes/.

Friday 20 July 2012

Double digging


Some farmers still lift potatoes by hand.  Their method was to work along each row lifting the potatoes out of the soil with a broad fork, depositing them neatly to one side of the row, leaving the haulms on the disturbed soil behind the digger.


This is the way many allotment gardeners harvest their spuds.  However, if you have a sticky clay loam soil that sticks to the potatoes it's not always that easy: there are always a few small ones that insist on remaining in the soil.  Have you noticed how self-sown potatoes always shoot up amongst delicate seedlings


A recently suggestion I saw (which has actually been in use many years) is to scoop the potato row to the left, then 'pick' the potatoes into a bucket and thence into a sack.  Then deposit the haulms behind you, after carefully removing even the tiniest of tubers that might grow again.


By the end of each row you'll be left with a hollow littered with haulms and a few uprooted weeds.  Then dig over the hollow, burying the rubbish, effectively double-digging the ground, leaving a layer of vegetation as a sanctuary for worms and quietly rotting away to increase the soil's fertility.


This sounds a good system, I'm going to try that next year.


Two Golden Rules for a weed-free allotment
  1. Leave enough room between rows of plants so it's easy to get at the weeds with your hoe.  Cabbages are a good 'cleaning crop'; they're robust and spaced well apart.  As they mature they shade any weeds and inhibit their growth.
  2. Hoe the soil before the weeds become noticeable.  Hoeing allows air into the soil, creating a mulching effect which reduced the evaporation of moisture in hot dry weather.  (I was taught 'if you hoe when you don't have to hoe, you'll never have to hoe'!)


Five Fallacies about weeds
  1. Potatoes are a 'cleaning crop'.  This is only partly true; potatoes won't get rid of weeds without a lot of effort on your part.  What is true is that you can't grow a decent crop of potatoes on weedy ground.
  2. You'll have to get rid of every scrap of weed root.  This is a counsel of perfection that deters many people from gardening.  The fact is that good cultivation - digging and hoeing - kills off the most persistent weeds like couch grass and nettles.  If they do grow again, they're easy to pull up when the soil's been well cultivated.
  3. You shouldn't put weeds on a compost heap.  Yes, you should.  The heat generated by a properly made compost heap destroys all weed seeds, rhizomes and bulbils.
  4. The only way to deal with weeds is to remove them with their top layer of soil.  This gets rid of any seeds that may have fallen from them.  What an appalling fallacy!  Your allotment's fertility lies in the top few inches of soil and weeds are better adapted than your vegetables to grown in an impoverished soil.  Actually weed seeds best survive deep down in the soil where there's less air; every time you dig your plot you bring next year's weeds to the surface.  Skimming off the surface won't appreciably reduce your weed population but it will reduce your chances of growing a good crop of vegetables.
  5. Modern weedkillers make weed control easy.  Weedkillers like Glyphosate have their uses but generally speaking, not on allotments. Spraying involves as much effort as hoeing and weedkillers with their suitable sprayers are expensive to buy.  Furthermore drifting spray might kill the wrong plants, worse still they could kill plants on your neighbours' plots, which won't make for happy gardening.



Wednesday 18 July 2012

Polpette Alla Diavola

Meatballs with Spicy Tomato Sauce to any English speakers

Meatballs:
500g lean beef mince
1 tbsp each chopped parsley and basil
4 spring onions, finely chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
100g fresh breadcrumbs
Pinch of ground cinnamon

400g dried pasta
1 tbsp olive oil
300g jar sauce
Parmesan cheese (optional)

  1. Make meatball mixture into walnut sized pieces.
  2. Cook pasta, then drain, reserving some cooking water.
  3. Brown meatballs in frying pan with the oil.
  4. Put sauce into pasta pan, add 1 tbsp cooking water and the meatballs.
  5. Simmer, stirring occasionally for five minutes.
  6. Add drained pasta to the sauce.

Tuesday 17 July 2012

The Truth About Slugs and Snails


To quote Ogden Nash 'God in his mercy made the fly, and then forgot to tell us why' and from the gardener's point of view the same is true of snails and their partners in slime, slugs.

  • All slugs were once snails.  They have lost their shells and replaced them with a layer of mucus.
  • Some snails follow each other's trails because they can use the remaining goo to help them slide along, rather than having to make a lots of expensive fresh material.
  • Snails carry human blood-group substances on their cells (nobody knows why) and they are sometimes used in blood-group testing.
  • Most slugs and snails are hermaphrodites, boy-girl meets girl-boy, it can take hours of probing to decide who wins.
  • Some hermaphrodite slugs bite off the penis of a rival to turn it into a female (which is convenient for the winner, the next time they meet).
Some ideas for controlling slugs and snails include the traditional: 
  • shift planks and stones which give the creatures a place to snooze during the day; 
  • do not grow hostas but turn to tough species such as foxgloves or fuchsias; 
  • drown them in pitfall traps willed with soapy water or pick them up one by one to suffer the same fate; 
  • erect a copper barrier or electric fence around your most precious plants;
  • Another approach is to be kind to hedgehogs and frogs, keen slug-eaters both - and encourage the song thrush.
  • The latest trick is biological control, the release of a nematode worm found wild around the Mediterranean that attacks molluscs.  However, is it safe to introduce an alien predator?
Or ... give up ... ?  After all snails make a popular snack in France and Italy!




Recently found amongst gardener Jack's papers:

  • Essential for good roots: phosphates (bonemeal, hoof and horn) oh - and superphosphate of lime.
  • Fruiting and flowering: potash (chemical, or wood-ash, though this will contain lime).
  • Green growth: nitrogen (dried blood, chemical, or fixed by legumes)
Blood, fish and bone is good all round fertilizer for slow-release plant food.

For:
Flowers choose a fertilizer with high K
Root crops choose a fertilizer with high P
Green growth choose a fertilizer with high N

Jack with daughter Jenny in 1956.
The record-breaking rainfall this summer has meant a bumper crop of watercress here.  So what to do with it?  

Looking on the internet, most recipes with watercress involve foods with strong flavours such as smoked mackerel and goats cheese.


Traditionally I make watercress soup and, as I can't remember the quantities, have sought out a reliable recipe to keep for future use. 

Watercress and Spinach Soup
1 tbsp oil
1 medium leek, finely chopped
400g potatoes, diced
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1.54 litres vegetable stock
85g watercress
300g spinach leaves
150g single cream
To serve:
6 tbsp single cream
handful croutons  

  1. Heat oil in pan, add leek, potato and cumin seeds and cook over a medium heat until the leeks have softened.
  2. Pour on the stock and simmer gently for 10 mins, then season.
  3. Add watercress and spinach. Cover and cook for one minute.
  4. Remove from heat.  Add the cream and blend.
  5. Reheat gently and serve with a swirl of the cream, topping with a few croutons.
A quick variation on this recipe is to buy a bag of mixed leaves (spinach, rocket and watercress), one small onion from stocks already in the house and milk instead of the single cream.

Sunday 15 July 2012

Yesterday dug up the potatoes at the allotment - the last produce we will have this year.  It was very disappointing up at the allotment to see that the people who took over from us haven't grown anything.  Only a tiny portion of soil has been cleared and nothing planted.  Such a disappointment as we handed the plot over to new people to give them chance to grow stuff this year.  They haven't even weeded around plants which we'd left for them: white onions, red onions, shallots, beetroot and  soft fruit.  At this time of year the allotment should be buzzing - literally  - with bees and other insects enjoying all the pollen from runner beans, courgettes, sweet corn.  
I bought some quorn - then didn't know what to do with it, so it's lived in the fridge for a few months.  Then, glancing at a magazine, I found this recipe.  So here goes:
Quorn Moussaka
2 aubergines (2.5lb), sliced
olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, grated
1 red pepper, sliced
1 tbsp oregano
2 tins chopped tomatoes
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp tomato puree
350g quorn (mince or pieces)
250g pouch pre-cooked puy lentils
1/4 pt stock
2 large eggs
1 tsp cornflour
500g plain yoghurt
3.5 oz cheese
  • Preheat oven to 200C.
  • Place aubergines in greased baking sheet, sprinkle oil on top. Cover with foil and bake half an hour.
  • Put oil in pan, add onions, garlic and pepper and cook until softened.
  • Add oregano, tomatoes, cinnamon, tomato puree, Quorn, lentils and stock. Season with s&p, bring to the boil and simmer 15 mins.
  • Spoon a third of the Quorn sauce over the base of a large gratin dish, place half the aubergine slices over the sauce, followed by another third of sauce, then remaining aubergine slices, followed by the rest of the sauce.
  • Lightly whisk the eggs and cornflour into the yoghurt. 
  • Spoon over the top and scatter with the cheese.
  • Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes.

We had some tonight - and it's much nicer than it sounds, so will definitely make it again and perhaps try other Quorn recipes.
 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
What is Quorn: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quorn