Monday 11 February 2013

When I was growing up in the 50s white bread was popular and no-one fancied eating the brown variety.  White bread was thought of as more pure, more high class.  Traditionally, only the poor ate brown bread and they didn't always know whether it was adulterated with sawdust, chalk - or worse.


But I was one of the few, especially children, who preferred brown bread.  White seemed to end up like lumps of cotton wool in my mouth and at least brown bread stayed dry and crumbly.

So I really enjoyed it when my grandmother made Brown Bread Ice Cream.  Here's a grown-up version of the recipe, taken from the Good Food Magazine of December 2002:

Brown Bread Ice Cream

100g granary or wholemeal Bread
50g light muscavado Sugar
handful of chopped mixed Nuts
300ml double Cream


Coulis:
340g pack grozen Fruits of the forest
1 - 2 tbsp Sugar, to taste
Creme de Cassis liqueur

  1. Preheat the grill to high.
  2. In a food processor make the breadcrumbs.
  3. Add the muscavado sugar.
  4. Place in a foil-lined grill pan with the nuts and toast until crispy and golden.
  5. Turn onto a baking sheet and leave to cool
  6. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks.
  7. Whisk the double cream until thick.
  8. Fold the bread mixture into the cream, then lightly fold in the egg whites.
  9. Spoon into ramekins and freeze overnight.
  10. Make the coulis.  Heat the fruit in a saucepan with 1tbsp sugar and creme de cassis.
  11. Taste and add more sugar and creme de cassis if you wish.
  12. To serve: turn out the ice cream and drizzle the hot coulis over the top.

Friday 8 February 2013

Coffee

When I was about 14 I discovered the delights of drinking coffee. In those days it was laced with sugar but I soon realised that the taste was much more intense without the sweet stuff.   

In the Guardian this week under the delightfully-named Flavour Thesaurus I discovered even more gems of wisdom about this popular beverage:

Roasted, the coffee bean contains notes of blackcurrant, clove, vanilla, chocolate and nuts, all of which make great flavour companions -

Coffee and Beef: Caffeinated red meat. Something to serve your most militantly health-conscious friends! Why not add a garnish of lit cigarettes?  Coffee is used in the southern US as a marinade or rub for meat.  It's also been spotted in fancier restaurants, perhaps because there's a well reported flavour overlap between roasted coffee and cooked beef.  But beware, this can give the beef a gamey flavour.

Coffee and blackcurrant: A mysteriously good pairing that often crops up in wine-tasting notes.  Captured in a vacherin - layers of meringue , blackcurrant sorbet, whipped cream and coffee ice-cream with a sprinkling of toasted almonds - it's absolutely delicious.
  
Or you could try a variant of pavlova - coffee-flavoured meringue with cream and a blackcurrant compote.  Or even blackcurrant jam in a coffee gateau.  This sounds akin to our old favourite, Black Forest Gateau (cherries and chocolate).

Coffee and hazelnut:   If you find yourself at an ice-cream parlour in France or Italy and you suffer an attack of selection anxiety, remember coffee and hazelnut is pretty good.


Tiramisu - garnished with coffee beans and basil leaves
Coffee and orange: Breakfast companions.  What about orange and coffee marmalade?  or burnt orange and coffee ice cream?  Also orange and coffee tiramisu is nicer than it sounds.   This could be made with the recipe for orange and coffee-bean liqueur (see below).

Coffee and Chocolate: Forget hot drinks.  Coffee and chocolate work much better in mousses, truffles and cakes.  Or use them as uncredited flavour boosters.  A little coffee flavour in chocolate dishes can make them taste more chocolatey - and vice versa.

Coffee and Cinnamon: Cinnamon has the strength and sweetness to cope with coffee flavours in baking.  In many places cinnamon is sprinkled or stirred into coffee.  Tastes good!


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Orange and Coffee-Bean Liqueur - the '44' recipe:
Take a large orange and make 44 slits in the skin, then put a coffee bean into each orifice.  Put 44 sugar cubes in a jar, position the orange on top and pour over 500ml brandy, rum or vodka.  Leave to steep for 44 days, then squeeze the juice out of the orange, mix it back into the alcohol, strain and pour into a steralised bottle.