Sunday 26 May 2013

Rewriting the restaurant rule book

We need to think about how, and how often, we eat out, according to Michael Pollan.


Can't be bothered to cook?  We all feel like that sometimes.  The solution (funds permitting) used to be so simple. phone for a reservation and head to a restaurant.  Job done.  

None of the tedious kitchen slavery, none of the guilt about whether we've shopped local or bought organic or Fairtrade.  And while takeaways have a reputation as waiting rooms for bypass surgery, restaurants are real cooking so it's practically as healthy as homemade, right?

Not according to Michael Pollan.  He believes it's time for us to pay attention to how we eat out, as well as how we eat in.  In his new book The Food Rules (http://www.webmd.com/food-recipes/news/20090323/7-rules-for-eating) it's time for us to pay attention to how we eat out, as well as how we eat in.  He has made a list of seven (simplistic) guidelines for making good food choices:

Dig doggy bags:  Restaurants serve supersize portions to make you feel you're getting your money's worth.  If there's enough for another serving, ask them to wrap it to go - so you really will be getting your money's worth.
Seasonal menues: Don't eat at restaurants that serve asparagus all year round (or strawberries). The chef's not paying attention to the seasons and it's unlikely the food will be special.
Small suppliers: The smaller the delivery truck out at the back, the better the food inside will be. If a restaurant is getting its ingredients delivered by articulated lorry, the food is apt to be undistinguished.
Name that farm: Look on the menu for names of specific farms, not meaningless generic pastoral terms like 'farm eggs', which means nothing.
Specials are special: If there are daily specials order them. They often mean fresh ingredients and thoughtful preparation.  But if the waiter doesn't tell you the price, ask - sometimes specials can carry special prices as well.
Don't order steak well done: Chefs typically serve the gnarliest pieces of meat to people who order well done, either out of a lack of respect or because overcooking covers a multitude of problems.  They serve the nicest cuts to patrons who order rare.  If you want well done, order it rare and send it back for more cooking.
How meat is raised matters:  Don't eat meat in restaurants unless the menu specifies that the animals were sustainably and humanely raised.  In the case of ruminants, look for terms like grass-finished or pasture-raised.



From: Cooked by Michael Pollan (Allen Lane, £20). Article by Xanthe Clay in Sunday Telegraph, 26 May 2013.

Michael Pollan: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2013/may/25/michael-pollan-family-meal-civilisation

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